Brownells Formula 44/40 2 oz. Cold Gun Blue Bluing Liquid

I first used this product to blacken a AR-15 front sight post/gas block that was modified to fit under a FF rail. Instructions on bottle do not mention soaking part in solvent to remove cold blue chemical. The part rusted. Used it again, but made sure to neutralize the acid/cold blue after use. I then liberally coated the part w/ Mobile 1. I've since used it numerous times to touch-up or blacken modified parts. Does a good job.

I used this product years ago to re-blue an H&R Topper .410 barrel (the whole thing) and portions of a Browning BL-22 receiver (my youngest brother had an "issue" with a bottle of Naval Jelly). Both have held up really well. Purchased some more recently to touch up a blued Beretta M81, with good results. Make sure you are applying it to blued (or previously blued)steel, not aluminum or parkerized/phosphated/nitrided steel. For a really good finish, apply a coat then buff with very fine steel wool. Clean and repeat as often as you like. The blueing gets deeper with more applications and some elbow grease to polish it.

I used this to re-blue a Winchester 1200 Barrel. It did NOT work so good. I knew that it worked better on different metals and not so well on other types of metals. This was one of them. I hit up parts of my 1911 (Para p14.45) and it INSTANTLY turned them black and the parts look brand new again! I even touched up parts of my dept. issued Glock 22 with it and now it looks like new. If you are in law enforcement and are issued guns, then you know what I mean by wear. I recommend this to any of you if you want to make your gun look like new. We all know how beat up these Glocks get and how many rounds we put through them over a one year period. Used this to re-blue the little parts that took to the bluing on the 1200 and its looks top notch. One thing to remember though. Before you use this stuff, put on a good pair of rubber gloves. This stuff starts to literally smell like hot garbage after its been applied. If you get this on your hands, be prepared to smell that garbage smell for atleast 2 days before it wears off. Even if you wash your hands five or seventeen times, it still has an oder.

Worked perfect to fix my Mosin Nagant Muzzle. I was one of the lucky ones and got a all matching Mosin with extra stamp (rare) and it had been countered, got a grade of excellent. With the stamp more than likely it saw some kind of action not just sitting in the armory. This gun is my pride and joy. So the point of being upset like you would not believe when it got a scratch. This stuff worked flawless. I'm not sure why all the negativity. If used correctly it works perfect I got lucky and did not lose any value. So I used Fluid film (Navy, what they use to prevent corrosion) and let it sit for days. Then used stripper and cleaned the metal. Applied 44/40 with q-tip wiped off. Oil again then strip it again one final application of 44/40 and you never knew it happened.

Bought this for quick touch ups that I missed when re-blueing an old FN Mauser using Oxpho Blue. Followed the directions and applied a few coats and it worked well. I found that if you heated the metal up with a common hair dryer the product worked a bit better. By no means would this work if youre re-blueing an entire weapon but if you want to quickly touch up a scratch or something like it this stuff will work. Just make sure you wash the area with warm water and soap once done using it to prevent rust and use a good quality gun oil after but if used right youll end up with a great product.

I had been using the Birchwood Casey cold blue for years with satisfactory results, until I saw someone using Brownells 44/40 on youtube. I must say I'm very impressed as it works much quicker and results in a much darker black than the BC brand cold blue. Of course it's not a replacement for a true hot blueing or park job, but it does a great job at camouflaging annoying scuffs and scratches in both blued and parked surfaces.

I use this product to touch up blueing on firearms and have even reblued entire firearms, including rifles, with proper preparation. Just put it on fast and don't stop till the entire surface is covered or you will have a difference in color from where you stopped and restarted. The othe thing you have to be cautious of is to immediatly cover the entire surface with a high quality gun oil.

too messy 😕

I got this to use on an old Remington 870 Wingmaster. After taking great care to bead blast the old finish off I applied this product just as the directions stated. I applied a liberal coat of oil as suggested. The next day the barrel and the receiver were rusted. I took all of the rust off and tried again. Same result. I then used my tried and true Vans Gun Blue and the gun now looks awesome. I threw the rest of the 44/40 away. I'd say i wasted a good 4-5 hours because of this product. Stay away from it.

I started a refinishing project and I am not going to be able to finish it. 44/40 is not penetrating far enough into the metal to actually be worth the prep time. The gun was absolutely clear of original Blueing and Rust I cleared it off per directions on the bottle with alcohol Warmed it up and the result of 44/40 is easily wiped off with oil on a cotton cloth. Trash don't use this product!