Eastwood Rust Converter One Quart

I have in the last year completed a complete suspension overhaul and lift on my 98 k1500 an used Eastwood converter on many parts. It really goes a long way. You need less then you would think! I still had leftovers from my first quart and my pop used that up. I ordered a second quart so it would be in the garage when we need it. Love the extreme chasi clack!

great product works as advertized, had to spray it with my touch up gun because none of the spray bottles i had would spray it the way i liked, dont think it would be a problem to brush it on . it layed down flat when drying, got it on sale made it even better

I used this on an old steel trailer bed. It had gotten pretty rusty hauling horse poo for the garden and 60 years of use. I followed the directions getting all the loose rust off and applied the product. All the rust turned black as it said it would. Made a good surface for bed liner to go over top.

Worked well and a quart goes along way! I poured small amounts into plastic mix cup to use. Covered with encapsulater and seems to be working well! Longevity will be the test as the seasons change to winter. Very happy and prep,prep, and prep more is key I believe?

This was mythird bottle of this. I used the first two on frames for a trailer and several gardening implements. It seems to take a bit longer to set up/cure than instructions indicate. It has been my go to for rust treatments. I typically cover coat with rust encapsulater, or finish with sanding and a colorcoat

I used this on the battery tray for my F100. The metal was rusted so bad that the thickness was nearly 1" of flaky rust. After working in rust converter with a stiff brush and numerous applications -until when dry, no more orange color, all black, the metal was so hard and ready for paint that I could not even scratch it with a screwdriver. Now I have the edge of my battery tray is still one inch thick, and rock-hard. Rust never sleeps, convert it!

It worked as advertised on one coat, but the second coat is on it's 3rd day and still is tacky to the touch. Don't think it will ever dry at this point, especially since I've had a fan blowing on the frame rail for 36 hours with little change. I'm going to try acetone to remove it and start all over. Mediocre result so far.

While the rust converter seems to work OK, it doesn't work quickly. The instructions on the can state: "Allow 48 hours to completely cure before painting." At 50-55 degrees F the cure seems to need 72 hours or more. I need a rust converter which will cure 100% on the same day.

Dave is right. It seems there must still be at least a little layer of rust on the entire surface in order to dry, other wise it just stays sticky. Especially if you spray it on too thick. It's like the rust is an "activator". Even then, just do light coats. Frankly, I would just forget this stuff and go right to the "Rust Encapsulator" as you can get it in black, silver and red, and it works more like you expect, like on VW seat spring assembly.

I purchased a kit of different coatings from Eastwoods some time ago just to try. I found the rust encapsulator seems to work ok but I won't use the converter again. It might be good on a frame that is solid rust but it seems if there is any paint or non-rusted metal left it just stays sticky and paint won't adhere to it. I cleaned two fender braces and tried this product, big mistake. Some areas didn't dry after two weeks and the primer paint just blistered up.