Minwax 63333444 Polycrylic Protective Finish Water Based,1 quart, Satin

[This review was collected as part of a promotion.] I bought this for some custom corn hole boards that I made. It doesn't yellow and applies easily over vinyl decals on corn hole boards.

I was nervous to try this product out but was pleasantly surprised! It went on easily and dries quickly. I was surprised that there is hardly an odor with this product too. I chalk painted my entertainment center and after a few paint chipping, decided I needed a protective coating over it if I didn't want to repaint every 2 years. A blogger recommended this product and I couldn't have agreed with her more. I chose the satin gloss to give it a pretty shine and it made the color pop more. I'm incredibly happy with the end results.

Redid my old (26 year old) pine cabinets. Used a famous chalk paint product for the color. Was advised from a friend that to put a final finish on then instead of the wax finish as suggested from paint company. I used Minwax polycrylic on them. Besides producing a beautiful finish, these cabinets seem sturdier. Easy cleanup and also easy to maintain. I brush coated each door on both sides...everyone loves my new kitchen and their considering doing the same as they contemplate cost of new cabinets verses redo their own!

I researched a lot of the woodworking store brands. They were very labor intensive, many steps, and almost operating room conditions needed. I have always used Minwax products only projects in the past but thought I'd give the expensive products a try since reading about them in the trade mags. Made up samples, (4), and asked my wife to pick the finish she wanted on her walnut table and benches. . . Guess what, she picked the Minwax finish over all the others! I even mis-tabled them to add to the drama ! ! ! She still picked the Minwax finish. . . and I'd have to agree with her. Easy to apply, used a painting pad and couldn't ask for a better result.

I do high-end paper mache sculptures, with acrylic paints. The Polycrylic adds a perfect gloss to them, and makes them hard as a rock. No surprise there. It's a fantastic product, already worthy of five stars. Minwax upped their game, though, when using PLASTIC CANS!!! The lid comes off easily, NEVER sticks hard, and when the gunk builds up, you can just peel it off. Then the lid goes on tightly and securely. If there was a way to give six stars, I would.

I built a kitchen table out of birch and when the kids saw it, I ended up making three more out of eastern red cedar (juniper). I really like the clear finish that didn't amber the natural color. (However, eastern red cedar changes from purple to brown when finished.) One thing I learned was that I needed to apply thick coats that looked milky to reduce brush streaks. Contrary to your recommendation, instead of using a synthetic bristle brush I ended up using a high dollar natural bristle brush. The cedar is bad about having lots of tiny holes and imperfections from its many limbs. I would have liked for the polycrylic to flow more than what it did to help fill the imperfections. It was indoors during winter time and the woodstove no doubt lowered the humidity greatly, which may have accentuated the problem. However, the lack of odor made the projects possible. Couldn't have done it outside in the shop with rain, snow and fog. I'll use polycrylic on my next projects.

Used this for years on many wood projects after staining, and on restoring and old cedar chest. Brought back the finish on my kitchen cabinets and able to use the kitchen same day. Only down fall is on large surfaces there isn't much time to "work the product" like regular poly urethane.

I am currently installing cherry picture frame paneling in our former dining room, which we've converted into a billiards room (who REALLY ever uses their dining room anymore anyway?). I just finished 12 4x8 1/4" cherry plywood panels with 2 coats of Polycrylic over a coat of Minwax water-based sanding sealer, and the results are simply incredible. The Polycrylic has been a joy to apply, brushed out very nicely to a completely even finish, and left NO brush marks at all. It dried very quickly, and I was able to apply the next coat in a couple of hours. A quick sand with 220 is all that's needed before the next coat. In the past, I've always used 2 coats of dewaxed shellac, then two coats of nitrocellulose brushing lacquer - but I am now a believer in the Minwax water-based products. Shellac and lacquer are much more difficult to apply, and they produce no better results than Polycrylic. In fact, I think I actually like the look of the Polycrylic on cherry better than lacquer - and it produces NO FUMES AT ALL (lacquer fumes will literally knock you out). It doesn't even need to be rubbed out like I have always done with the lacquer. For my future cherry projects - or any projects - Minwax Polycrylic will be my go-to finish! I'm very impressed and quite pleased with the results. Pictures are of the finished panels glued on the walls. The “picture frame” trim will be next. It will be 5/4” solid cherry. Can't wait to see how it finishes with the Polycrylic!

I had a carpenter make a rolling "wine bar" that was paint grade, but being amazing, he used a top quality basswood plywood with maple trim. Once I saw it I decided I didn't want to cover it up, just protect the wood. He recommended a water based product, as did Home Depot (way easier to use, to clean up, and the fumes are much less). I bought this in Clear Satin. I used the technique and patience of a deranged raccoon. I had watched a YouTube video of a women discussing how careful you need to be, to only stir slowly and not shake the can, to only go one way and in the direction of the grain, be wary of brush strokes and bubbles, etc. Nope. Tom Sawyer would have laughed at my application process. It's thick and sticky on wood so I spread in cross-hatch, then went back and smoothed it out with the grain. I sorta sanded lightly between 1st and 2nd coats. I did use a microfiber rag to dust before each application. I think it turned out beautifully. If you are afraid to try, go with Satin as it does dry clear (but goes on milky).

I just did a mahogany coffee table. Dries super fast. I did have a tiny bit of issues with drying too fast but I think the weather is too warm right now. I have minor shiner streaks. Wondering can put a coffee cup on it without coaster or will that cause rings? I have 2 end tables to do and would like it to go smoother. I did 4 coats trying to get it right. Don't think the issue is the product but my application.