Klean Strip Boiled Linseed Oil Qt

Ultra low odor mineral spirits has Very low VOC's and NO HAPS! Excellent for oil painting in the house and I don't have to feel drunk all day oil painters big three linseed oil to oil brushes and your hands will be easier to clean, mineral spirits for thinning and clean up, dawn to cut oils that get on clothing, then back to the linseed oil so your hands don't dry up from degreaser.

I used Linseed OIl on a couple of garden benches. It was recommended by the manufacturer for maintenance at least once a year. Hopefully it will do the job since this was its first application and I did bring the benches inside to insure longevity. After one application, the garden bench looked like it was just bought.

This is a staple for anyone interested in woodworking, whether a hobbyist or professional. It is an extremely inexpensive finish that has protective properties and also brings out beautiful color and patterns in wood as it's applied. While there is certainly combustion potential, as with most other wood finishes, the risk is extremely low and can be mitigated with simple safety measures. In my opinion, boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and maybe some wipe on polyurethane for added protection are all you need to make a beautiful woodworking piece. I have never gone wrong with this brand, and it is consistently extremely affordable. This is a treat because certain other common finishes (e.g., teak oil, danish oils) can be significantly more expensive.

Linseed oil will spontaneously combust. Be very careful when using a rag , a cloth, a paintbrush… anything that you apply it with , will automatically start a fire. Douse your rag or whatever you use , in water then lay it out flat or just burn it up so you won’t have to worry a/b it catching a fire later on!

I used up my previous can of this linseed oil over a year ago. Had to get some more recently for several projects - one was an adorable, but old dried out orchard bushel basket. The wood was very brittle and it soaked up about 1/4 of this can. Seems much more pliable now. I treated the long wooden handle on my daughter's pizza peel. It was bare porous wood and soaked up the oil in a hurry. Put some on an old 24-lb metal kitchen scale, circa 1907. It probably came from my grandparents. It had some rust hidden in with it's black coat of paint. I liked it's aged look and wanted to inhibit any more rust so I wiped the entire scale down with this linswed oil, except for the white face dial. Before I ran out of my previous can few years ago, I used it on an old antique (china?) kitchen cabinet. It's wood was so old and dry that some areas were beginning to get that fuzzy feel and you could rub it off with your fingers. After a light but thorough sanding, that cabinet soaked up almost an entire quart of linseed oil - a good investment for that cabinet. I have a tall case floor clock built from a fair amount of plywood. I put linseed oil on the bare plywood before staining and varnishing. This was to keep the plywood layers from coming unglued and buckling over time. I also treated wood handles on old kitches knives, stirring spoons, and such. Those were of high quality tight grained woods and didn't soak up much linseed oil, but I still treated them because of their age. If the wood doesn't soak up all the linseed oil within about half an hour, you need to wipe off the excess linseed oil or it will become a tough gum-like coating that will need to be sanded off...using lots of sandpaper. Wondering how I know this? When I started writing this, I didn't think I was going to say this much. Sorry.

I’ve been using Linseed oil for a number of years now, ever since I worked at a treated Lumber plant. I saw the Dangerous ingredients that were used to treat Lumber ( Arsenic ) and decided to not use Treated Lumber for my Building Materials again. This was after I found out that Linseed oil treats Lumber just as good, if not better, than the Chemicals used in Treated Lumber. I’ve treated Benches, Chairs and Tables, I’ve yet to find a problem with rot or decay. With Linseed oil you can keep the Lumber looking natural or get the desired color you want. It’s so simple to use as well. The Bottom Line for me was that I wasn’t going to subject my Family to sit on Arsenic poisoning, it just didn’t make any sense to do that At All. This brand of Linseed oil is my go to oil. I Highly recommend using this product of Linseed oil for Treating Lumber. The Viking chair pictured below has been lightened a little by the sun, but most importantly it has No Rot or Decay what so ever. It’s been 8 years since I built it.

It is linseed oil. It worked as expected on wooden handles for outdoor tools. Would buy it again. Do recommend it.

ppl tend not to read directions thinking they know everything .. this product has to be used and handled w care as well as the clean up due to the possibility of spontaneous combustion ..

This stuff works great — wood looked so good I started considering myself a professional craftsman for about 15 minutes. Smooth finish, rich color, smells like you might grow a beard just by opening the can. BUT LISTEN… Please take the “spontaneous combustion” warning seriously. I tossed my oily rag in the corner like an amateur, and within an hour it was hotter than the Arkansas sun in July. I’m pretty sure it whispered, “I’m about to ruin your whole day.” Great product, beautiful results — just treat the rags like they’re plotting against you. Would buy again… with a metal safety can and a healthy respect for chemistry.

I bought this to finish a picnic table and keep on hand for future projects. After staining I placed the bottle in the garage on the floor. It has been between 50 and 65 degrees. in there. Woke up the next day and the product had eaten holes in its own container and was leaking everywhere. Not worth it for only one use and a major safety hazard.